SOLDERING IRON, TYPES OF SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDERING CONSUMABLES
The soldering iron undoubtedly occupies a central place in the phalanx of welding and charging devices. It is a device for melting solder, which connects parts and elements by soldering. In this process, the soldering iron is heated to 250-350° C, melts the solder and connects the metal parts or alloys. After cooling, a reliable electrical and mechanical connection is created between the metal parts. The metal parts themselves are not melted, as in welding, but a thin layer of solder is created in the boundary layer.
Types of soldering irons:
Modern soldering irons are divided into electric and gas, depending on the energy source. Gas soldering irons use propane-butane to heat the soldering tip and do not have the temperature control capabilities that electric ones have. These devices are characterized mainly by the power of the heater. More powerful soldering irons are used for soldering larger parts in size and mass.
One of the most common types of electric soldering irons is the induction type. It uses a step-down transformer, in which the primary winding is connected to the supply voltage, and the secondary winding is only a few turns and a heating tip is short-circuited in it. It heats up for a very short time when the power is turned on. This type of soldering iron is used only for amateur purposes.
The shape, material and coating of the tip are essential for the performance of a quality solder joint. The choice of shape and size depends mainly on the location and type of solder joint. The coating of the tip, in turn, depends mainly on the type of solder. To perform quality solder joints, the tip must be well cleaned and free of corrosion.
The main technical data of an electric soldering iron are: heater power, operating temperature range, tip type and geometry, as well as size and weight of the working part itself.
The electrical power is usually from 15 to 120W, and the operating temperature ranges from 150 to 500°C.
Soldering supplies:
- Solder: everything is easiest with tinol. This is a tin-lead alloy, made in the form of a thin (0.5-2 mm) tube, filled with flux (rosin). It is sold in larger or smaller rolls (50-1000 g). It also differs in composition, which in turn determines the melting temperature. The most convenient is 60% Sn (tin) + 40% Pb (lead), which melts at about 180 degrees. Any other percentages melt at a higher temperature.
- Flux: it serves to chemically clean the surface of the soldered parts from oxides, patina and any other obstacles to soldering. In addition, the flux covers the surface of the molten solder and prevents its oxidation. A heated surface left without flux (metal or solder) is instantly covered with oxide, which prevents the adhesion of metals and the solder simply does not work.
For any electronic and almost any electrotechnical purposes, the flux contained in tinol is sufficient. For complex tasks, rosin (or pastes based on it) is used, and in field conditions - aspirin tablets (it smells terrible when working). There are, in addition, acidic and neutral, liquid, solid and pasty, commercially available and homemade fluxes, necessary or convenient in a variety of cases.
- Wet sponge: useful for cleaning the soldering iron tip from soot. Suitable ones are sold in electronic stores. Foam is not preferable, as it smells when heated.
INVERTER GENERATORS. ADVANTAGES AND FUNCTIONALITY OF INVERTER GENERATORS
Electric arc welding is the most commonly used method for permanent joining of various metal structures, as well as for restoring broken or worn metal parts. The time was not far off when this was limited only to welding with coated electrodes or, in popular language, welding with an electric arc welding transformer, which provides alternating current with the necessary strength and characteristics at a voltage safe for humans.
However, inverter generators have brought about a small revolution in this area. Among more advanced home craftsmen, the prevailing opinion is that anyone who has worked with such a device would never touch a transformer again.
Advantages of inverter electric grinders:
The inverter device is much more functional to use. It is incomparably lighter than the transformer one. For work requiring frequent transfer of the electrician from one place to another and especially when welding in places with difficult access such as roofs, balconies and verandas, on high scaffolding or even when the worker has climbed a ladder, the inverter welding device has no alternative.
The reason for the drastic difference in weight compared to classic AC welding transformers is the use of an inverter operating principle, which is where the name of this type of device comes from.
The inverter electric welding machine is much more economical. It consumes less current, and at idle - almost nothing. Another significant advantage is that it works with direct current, not alternating current, as is the case with ordinary welding transformers. When welding with direct current, a better quality weld is obtained, and with the use of special electrodes, stainless steel, cast iron, copper, copper alloys and other metals can be welded.
With inverter electric welding machines, welding becomes much easier and faster. This is due not only to all of the above, but also to the HOT START function for easy ignition of the welding arc, which in a fraction of a second increases the voltage by about 30%. In order for the arc to burn smoothly and evenly, without the characteristic cracking, electric welding machines of this type also have the ARC FORCE function. It stabilizes the arc during welding and is also the result of the electronic control of the inverter unit.
In addition, in the inverter welding machine, the tendency of the electrode to stick to the workpiece when the current is insufficient is greatly limited. This is ensured by another function of the electronic control - ANTISTICK. This is another advantage of inverter devices, because the sticking of the electrode not only hinders and slows down the work, but is dangerous for the worker and people nearby, as well as for heat-sensitive objects.
CAR BATTERY CHARGERS
The quality of the battery and the way it is used determine how long it will last. No matter what brand it is, no matter how well we take care of it, and no matter how sparing we are, there is no way that the battery will not discharge over time. That's when the charger comes to the rescue.
It is essential for the durability of a battery to be charged on time and correctly, following its discharge. Often the charging provided by a car generator is not sufficient, especially if short distances are traveled with frequent engine stops. Low temperatures also have a negative effect.
Almost any battery can be charged and brought back to life, as long as it has not suffered mechanical damage, such as a connection between individual cells or a voltage drop below the critical limit.
Charging devices vary in design and output, but their principle of operation is the same.
Charging a serviceable battery:
If the battery is serviced, i.e. with plugs on individual cells that may be loose, it is necessary to check the condition and level of the electrolyte. When the electrolyte is in good condition, the amperometer readings are green. The electrolyte level in each cell should be about 10-15 mm above the surface of the plates. Do not wait for the alternator if there is a cell without an electrical outlet.
Charging a maintenance-free battery:
If the battery is not serviceable, you can go straight to charging it.
HOW DO YOU CHARGE A CAR BATTERY?
1. Clean the terminals if they are clogged. You can use a screwdriver or wire brush. If the battery is serviceable, open all the cell caps.
2. Connect the charger's clamps to the battery terminals: the positive terminal (red) to the plus terminal and the negative terminal (blue/black) to the minus terminal.
3. Turn on the charger. Some chargers regulate the charging current and voltage automatically. Others, however, have the option of manual adjustment.
For proper charging, the current should not exceed 1/10 of the battery capacity. For example, a battery with a capacity of 65 Ah is charged with no more than 6.5A.
Do not leave the battery charging unattended. If the battery starts to get very hot at any point, turn off the charger and wait until the temperature returns to normal. Then charge it again. During charging, bubbles will begin to form on the surface of the electrolyte, which will separate more quickly. This is normal. Typically, charging lasts for several hours, while rapid separation of bubbles in the electrolyte (“boiling”) begins. The continuous delay of the battery is the opposite, so if it starts to "boil", stop the delay.
Wait at least an hour before closing the caps and installing the battery in the car!
